Lip Colour: More Than Just A Shade

Lips are one of the most expressive and unique features of our faces. From the delicate vermilion border to the rich hues that define each smile, lips do more than just speak—they can tell a lot about our health and lifestyle. Have you ever wondered what influences lip colour, or why it changes over time?

The One Thing that Makes A Whole Lot of Difference

Lip colour can have a surprising psychological impact, influencing both self-perception and how others view us. Research shows that the brightness and colour of a face, including the lips, can significantly affect overall facial impressions (Kobayashi, Y. et al, 2017). Since our brains process faces holistically, subtle changes in lip colour can make someone feel more presentable, comfortable, and confident. This is why women worldwide seek to enhance their lip and skin tone through makeup, aided by the increasing precision of photo-based colour measurement tools. The right lip colour can boost vibrancy and approachability, while discoloration can affect self-esteem and how others perceive them.

The Science of Lip Color

The lip vermilion is a distinctive area on the face, constantly exposed to elements like sunlight, air, and cosmetics. Unlike the rest of your skin, lip colour is predominantly influenced by haemoglobin, the pigment in blood that gives lips their reddish tone (Vergnaud, H. et al, 2024). A smaller contribution comes from melanin, the pigment responsible for skin colour (Takashimizu, I. & Yuzuriha, S. ,2018). Various factors can alter this pigmentation, including age, ethnicity, and external influences like smoking and sun exposure (Shang, J. et al, 2024).

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Pathophysiology of Lip Pigmentation

Unlike the rest of your skin, lip colour is predominantly influenced by haemoglobin, the pigment in blood that gives lips their reddish tone. A smaller contribution comes from melanin, mostly at the lip vermillion, the pigment responsible for skin colour.  Melanocytes are specialised cells that produce melanin, a pigment responsible for the coloration of skin, hair, and eyes. However, the concentration of melanocytes in the vermilion zone is significantly lower than in other areas of the skin, which makes the lips more susceptible to external stimuli.

So, What Triggers Melanogenesis?

Our lips are more sensitive than you might think! External factors like UV rays, friction, and chemicals (like nicotine) can kick melanogenesis—the process of melanin production—into overdrive. Melanocytes, our skin’s pigment-producing cells, get busy creating melanin within melanosomes, which are then passed to skin cells (keratinocytes). Over time, this leads to darker lips, especially in those with naturally higher melanin levels or darker skin tones.

Smoking takes this a step further. Nicotine and chemicals like benzopyrenes from cigarette smoke stimulate melanocyte activity by causing oxidative stress and inflammation, further deepening pigmentation. In fact, studies show 95.24% of smokers experience pigmentation on both the lips and inner cheek area—yikes! (Multani, S. ,2013)

But it’s not just external factors; medications such as chemotherapy drugs and antimalarials can also mess with your lip colour, affecting cellular turnover and increasing melanin production. And let’s not forget vitamin deficiencies and medical conditions like diabetes, which can also cause lips to lose their natural glow.

Even allergic reactions can be a culprit—ever heard of pigmented contact cheilitis? Irritants like lipsticks, hair dyes, or even green tea can trigger lip darkening in some people. And, as we age, hormones like oestrogen and progesterone take a toll on lip pigmentation too, especially post-menopause, leading to a gradual loss of radiance and fullness (Caisey, L. et al. ,2007).

The Psychosocial Impact of Lip Pigmentation

Lips are a key feature in the perception of beauty, and changes in their pigmentation can have a profound psychological impact. Discoloured or uneven lips may lead to feelings of self-consciousness, particularly when associated with ageing, smoking, or poor health. For many individuals, darker lips can become a source of emotional distress, especially if they feel it detracts from their overall appearance.

The connection between lip pigmentation and confidence is significant. Lips that appear darker can negatively affect self-esteem, leading to a reluctance to smile or engage in social interactions. In contrast, individuals with well-maintained, healthy-looking lips often report feeling more confident and comfortable in both personal and professional settings.

For those struggling with pigment changes in their lips, addressing this issue through aesthetic treatments can provide more than just cosmetic benefits—it can restore a sense of self-worth and positivity.

Treatment Options

Wondering how to maintain or restore the natural colour of your lips? There are plenty of ways to keep them looking fresh and youthful. Here’s how!

• Basic Homecare: A good lip balm with SPF is your best friend for daily lip protection! Hydration is key to keeping your lips healthy, so don't skip on lip masks to lock in moisture. To tackle existing pigmentation and prevent future darkening, incorporate Cyspera into your routine for targeted lightening. For an extra layer of protection, try oral sunscreen like Yllume—perfect for keeping pigmentation in check from the inside out!

• Avoid Irritants: Steer clear of habits like lip-smacking or excessive licking, as they can dry out and damage your lips. Ditch tobacco and other irritants too, as they can lead to unwanted lip discoloration.

• Cellular Regeneration and Activation: Treatments like Electri (a blend of hyaluronic acid and succinic acid) deeply hydrate and kickstart cellular metabolism, while polynucleotide (PN) treatments work to regenerate cells, enhancing both lip texture and colour for a healthier, rejuvenated look.

• Depigmentation Treatments: For lips darkened by hyperpigmentation, advanced options like Fotona LipLase and lip toning with Fotona StarWalker PQX effectively target and reduce melanin production (Agha, M.T. et al,2021; Shetty, S. & Pai, S., 2017). These treatments safely brighten and plump the lips, providing long-lasting, natural-looking results.

Your lips deserve the same care as the rest of your skin! Whether you’re looking to lighten darker lips, restore hydration, or enhance their natural colour, a detailed consultation with an expert is the first step. At Dream Clinic, Dr. Vera offers customised treatments to bring out the best in your smile. Call us today to book your consultation and explore the right options for you!

References

Agha, M.T., Polenik, P. and Hassan, M. (2021) ‘Er,CR:YSGG 2780 nm laser treatment of lip melanin hyperpigmentation’, International Journal of Dentistry, 2021, pp. 1–11. doi:10.1155/2021/6621341.

Caisey, L. et al. (2007) ‘Influence of age and hormone replacement therapy on the functional properties of the lips’, Skin Research and Technology, 14(2), pp. 220–225. doi:10.1111/j.1600-0846.2007.00283.x.

Kobayashi, Y., Matsushita, S. and Morikawa, K. (2017) ‘Effects of lip color on perceived lightness of human facial skin’, i-Perception, 8(4), p. 204166951771750. doi:10.1177/2041669517717500.

Multani, S. (2013) Interrelationship of smoking, lip and gingival melanin pigmentation, and periodontal status, Addiction & health. Available at: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3905564/

Shetty, S. and Pai, S. (2017) ‘Aesthetic correction of Smoker’s lip using 1064 nm Q-switched neodymium-doped yttrium aluminium garnet laser’, Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery, 10(2), p. 118. doi:10.4103/jcas.jcas_103_15.

Takashimizu, I. and Yuzuriha, S. (2018) ‘The amounts of melanin pigment causing color differences between the Vermilion and Lip Mucosa’, Journal of Plastic, Reconstructive & Aesthetic Surgery, 71(12), pp. 1816–1834. doi:10.1016/j.bjps.2018.08.002.

Vergnaud, H. et al. (2024) ‘Lip Color Diversity: An intricate study’, Skin Research and Technology, 30(2). doi:10.1111/srt.13583.